Going To Church
July 26th 2007
Today I got to do something very unusual for me—I went birding. And I wasn’t in my backyard! My writing schedule and my summer cold have held me prisoner for most of July. John Atkins and I broke out of the hub city and headed south for a day of playing hookie. Our first stop—Picayune and Trietlers, a real Cajun chaucuterie shop transplanted from Saint Bernard Parish after Katrina. Mr. Trietler’s sausages and hogshead cheese are a taste of old Chalmette when its butchers were famous from Slidell to Baton Rouge. I was crushed when I drove up to an empty shop and what should be known far and wide as a Blackwell note taped to the door. Closed for Vacation.
Something about my leaving Hattiesburg causes people to shut their barbecue shacks, potteries, ice-cream stands, hot dog parlors, plant nurseries, and four-star restaurants to flee before me. What can I say? It’s a gift.
We soothed our disappointment by going to Rouses Grocery and buying cheap wine and liquor. Then we went and ate at T-LeBlancs, a great family-run Louisiana home-cooking restaurant. I see people eat all kinds of great pot-food and blue-plate lunches here, but I just can’t pass up their sloppy roast beef po-boy, and John always eats red beans and hot sausage.
Then we spent the rest of the afternoon poking around Slidell, Bayou Sauvage, Irish Bayou, Chef Menteur, The Rigolets, and White Kitchen. Birding was slow, but we did manage to find five Swallow-tailed Kites, two Anhingas, and a really big gator at the White Kitchen boardwalk. The once-beautiful roadside park there is ravaged now, and the live oaks and cypress along the slough are still broken and ragged. But there is plenty of water now, and the marsh seems healthier than I’ve seen it in years.
There was a time Lin and I visited that marsh almost every week, going and coming to and from New Orleans. I stopped there so often on Sundays that I started calling it going to church. In those days to walk through the live oaks, thick with resurrection fern then stroll the boardwalk through the shady gallery of moss-laden Cypress and finally emerge into the brightness of the vast freshwater marsh, teaming with herons, ibis, warblers, egrets, and eagles was…. Well, it was my church and more beautiful than any man-made church could ever be.
This most beautiful spot has been vandalized, choked with exotic weeds, starved for water, trampled and plowed by wild hogs, blown flat by Katrina and scraped bare by FEMA, but the eagles still nest on Eagle Slough, and the Gray’s Tree Frog still sings in hope at every passing cloud. Today it felt like Church, again.
Take care,







